- Pale Mountains

Sassolungo

The Dolomites were named after Deodat Gratet de Dolomieu, who first discovered the rock that resembles limestone, but does not effervesce in weak hydrochloric acid. These mountains constitute a unique area covered with spiky pinnacles, grassy meadows and long narrow valleys and pasture lands. The highest point in the Dolomites is Marmolada at 3343 meters. We stayed in Val Gardena of the South Tyrol province where the highest point is Sassolungo at 3181 meters. This peak was visible from our hotel room and one day we rode the tram to its base. We sat on the nice flat grassy plateau below Sassolungo and admired the surrounding scenery.

Today, the Dolomites straddle the Italian and Austrian border. From 1814 until 1919 this area was part of the Austria-Hungary empire. After WWI the area was annexed by Italy, and Mussolini established an Italianization campaign, which included changing place and road names, prohibition of the German name "Suditrol", Italinization of German surnames, removing German officials from office, and difficulty for Germans to relocate to the area.

In October of 1939 during the second world war, Hitler and Mussolini reached an agreement on the assimilation of the ethnic German minorities in the province. The members of the communities had the remainder of 1939 to either remain in Italy and lose all minority rights, or emigrate to Nazi Germany (e.g. Austria) and retain certain rights. 85%-90% of German people in the area opted for emigration.

Today, South Tyrol remains strongly Austro-Hungarian in culture, which is one of the things that makes it so interesting to visit. It is a convergence of Italian and Austrian worlds. The infrastructure is outstanding and the scenery is well worth the trip. Although I will say it's easy to get tangled up with place names. Just about every town, province and peak has an Italian name and a German name making it easy to incorrectly combine them or simply misuse them all together. I am pretty sure I may have confused some in this post, but I have done my best.

High point on our drive to Val Gardena

Check out these dedicated bike and foot paths

Flowers in the field just above Santa Cristina

On our third day in the Val Gardena area I took the bus down to Ortisei and rode the Seceda tram up above Col Raiser pasture for a short hike before taking the tram down to the neighboring village of Santa Cristina, and finishing my day with a run along the footpath back to our village of Selva. It was a great day of exercise and sightseeing. While in the high country I was afforded panoramic views North and West into the Alps, as well as outstanding views of the Dolomite range to my East and South, including the highest point Marmolada. When I reached the top of the Seceda lift a blanket of clouds covered the entire area. As the morning progressed these clouds lifted revealing beautiful mountains and basins.  It was an outstanding show to watch.

Early morning clouds

The clouds lifting

Sassolungo from the East still partially shrouded in clouds

The trail along the edge of Sass Rigais

Looking across the Col Raiser pasture
into the heart of the Dolomites

Looking North toward the Austrian Alps

Mountain trail

During my hike I stopped at a small mountain hut (Troier Hutte) for lunch. These huts are placed along popular walks as stopping points to rest and partake in local food. I enjoyed some vegetable soup, homemade bread and a glass of local wine on the patio with an excellent Dolomite backdrop. What a day to remember!

Nice views everywhere

Val Gardena was a highlight of our trip from a scenic standpoint particularly because of the ease of high country access (think high speed tram available everywhere). Also because of the stunning views from just about everywhere. The dolomite cliffs light up in the evenings making excellent visuals. It was a great place to visit from a cultural perspective also.

The small villages in Val Gardena are full of excellent restaurants and everywhere you look there is outstanding mountain biking, hiking, hang gliding and a host of other outdoor activities. It reminded me of New Zealand in this way. It was clear to us that wintertime would be extraordinary here also. Aside from the winter scenery it would be fun to experience the Christmas holiday in this Province.

Selva with a bright dolomite backdrop at sunset

The girls at the base of Sassolungo